Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these tales and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
